But subtlety is a virtue at Chengdu Taste, where dishes are spiced for flavor and scent rather than as a test of strength.

Known for its spice factor, Szechuan cuisine isn’t for everyone. Spring Mountain Road #2, JPR Best Chinese food

With multiple James Beard nominations and more than a few mentions right here in Desert Companion, Raku keeps generating buzz for a reason. Raku hits all the hipster high points: Off-Strip, late hours, chef-driven, small plates, authentic cuisine, a daily specials board that is simply beyond and menu items that have achieved cult status, like “potato corn” (just order it) and a take on caprese that replaces mozzarella with house-made tofu. This once tiny, under-the-radar grill now delivers its widely celebrated wood-fired Japanese delights in a much larger space. LaPlaca’s riff on chicken Alfredo incorporates foie gras and chicken cracklings, the grilled onion gnocchi is accompanied by crispy frog legs, and he’s even got a pasta of his own making, in the jagged-edge ripatelli.

How else can you explain the transformation of the standard red-sauce spot Onda into the valley’s best Italian restaurant? The magic is everywhere on the menu. Four locations, JPRĬhef Michael LaPlaca is a dark wizard. Naked City elevates mere pizza to something that’s a joy to eat from beginning to end, and even before that: The joy starts when you open the box and inhale deeply. The ingredients are top-shelf (you’ll taste it in the Italian sausage and pepperoni), and the sauce leans more spicy than sweet, just how it should be. The crust, at once chewy and firm, is neither thin nor thick. There’s something special about how perfectly balanced this rectangular, Buffalo-style pie truly is. That’s okay, because we’re fueled by the fantastic foodstuff cranked from the ovens of Naked City. Given the varieties - and their vociferous defenders - we know we’re stepping into a minefield here. It’s no surprise the barstools fill fast. Garnished with your choice of cheese and paired with a side of either fries or house-made chips, it’s only $7 at happy hour. And the burger? This superior version is as traditional as they come, ground in-house from aged USDA Prime beef and crafted into exactly what every burger should be: rich, flavorful, juicy and satisfying. We know that dining at this chain of expense-account steakhouses isn’t as hip as hollering your fusion-flavored burger order through a food truck window and then scarfing it standing up, but Del Frisco’s classic vibe is just as Instagram-worthy. Happy Hour Burger at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House

New vegas desert eagle